My Kis Cruiser - Pre-Assembly 2

N247BR

Pre-Assembly Wing Install

Part 2 - Angle of Incidence - Flaps

The builders manual talks about the space between the rear spar and the wing rear spar. You can see the space clearly in this photo and the relation to the flap control rod hangar. I was very concerned about this due to a mistake I made in installation of the rear spar. I installed it perfectly vertical instead of the directed 3 degree angle. It proved to be a non issue since the gap is more than large enough to allow for compensation.

The wing alignment jig is placed on the wing and the positions marked at the same point on both wings. If the jig is made according to the template and adjusted to fit the position the same on both wings the top edge of the jig will be at 3 degrees when the level line is level. By dang, it worked!
I used a 2x2 aluminum angle clamped on the level line and then placed a level on that. I set the smart level on top and used the tone generator to let me know when it was level.

First, I created spacer blocks from 1/4 " Phenolic sheet and placed them between the rear spars. I positioned the left wing first and adjusted the rear spar up or down until it was positioned correctly. It was clamped into place and I moved to the right wing. I repeated the process to ensure that I could get the correct setting on both wings. Once sure of the settings, I drilled pilot holes and installed guide bolts and rechecked everything again. I proceeded then to enlarge the spar bolt hole until it was ready for the bolt and guides.

Once the spar bolt holes were set and checked, the spacers and bolt guides were all bonded into place, the rear spar bolt installed and tightened while the adhesive set.
I checked the angle of incidence at both the wing root and wing tip. The SmartLevel is shown setting on the jig and I think you can see the angle shown is exactly 3.0 degrees. I was lucky enough to see the exact same readings on both wings.

It's great to be lucky!

Once the angle of incidence is set it's time to install the wingtip, ailerons, and flaps. I used clamps to hold the aileron and flap into proper position for alignment and checking the tip alignment.

I had already installed the inside flap control arm but waited to install the forks on the end of the flap control. This allowed me to position the flaps, align the control fork and then mark and drill the bolt holes for the control arm. I believe this better compensates for any misalignment in the flap guides. Also note a 1/4 " phenolic spacer behind the guide. I don't know if I made a mistake or what but the nylon guide just wasn't making enough contact for my part.

Once the Flap positions are set, the fairings can be fit. Allow plenty of time for this process. It is totally a trial and error process to get the right fit. I placed 3 layers of duct tape over the recessed flange on the wing before starting. I wanted to make sure there was some clearance for sliding the wing on and off.

The right side spar control arm is shown in the full up position. You can see the jacks used for adjusting and holding the fuselage level.

This shows the bolts for holding the rear spar to the rear wing spar. The two bolts at the top are just guide bolts but I will leave them in. They are not necessary but made it easier to hold the spar in position while drilling out the main spar bolt holes.

	The builders manual talks about the space between the rear spar and the wing rear spar. You can see the space clearly in this photo and the relation to the flap control rod hangar. I was very concerned about this due to a mistake I made in installation of the rear spar. I installed it perfectly vertical instead of the directed 3 degree angle. It proved to be a non issue since the gap is more than large enough to allow for compensation.
	The wing alignment jig is placed on the wing and the positions marked at the same point on both wings. If the jig is made according to the template and adjusted to fit the position the same on both wings the top edge of the jig will be at 3 degrees when the level line is level. By dang, it worked! I used a 2x2 aluminum angle clamped on the level line and then placed a level on that. I set the smart level on top and used the tone generator to let me know when it was level.
	First, I created spacer blocks from 1/4 " Phenolic sheet and placed them between the rear spars. I positioned the left wing first and adjusted the rear spar up or down until it was positioned correctly. It was clamped into place and I moved to the right wing. I repeated the process to ensure that I could get the correct setting on both wings. Once sure of the settings, I drilled pilot holes and installed guide bolts and rechecked everything again. I proceeded then to enlarge the spar bolt hole until it was ready for the bolt and guides.
	Once the spar bolt holes were set and checked, the spacers and bolt guides were all bonded into place, the rear spar bolt installed and tightened while the adhesive set. I checked the angle of incidence at both the wing root and wing tip. The SmartLevel is shown setting on the jig and I think you can see the angle shown is exactly 3.0 degrees. I was lucky enough to see the exact same readings on both wings. It's great to be lucky!
	Once the angle of incidence is set it's time to install the wingtip, ailerons, and flaps. I used clamps to hold the aileron and flap into proper position for alignment and checking the tip alignment.
	I had already installed the inside flap control arm but waited to install the forks on the end of the flap control. This allowed me to position the flaps, align the control fork and then mark and drill the bolt holes for the control arm. I believe this better compensates for any misalignment in the flap guides. Also note a 1/4 " phenolic spacer behind the guide. I don't know if I made a mistake or what but the nylon guide just wasn't making enough contact for my part.
	Once the Flap positions are set, the fairings can be fit. Allow plenty of time for this process. It is totally a trial and error process to get the right fit. I placed 3 layers of duct tape over the recessed flange on the wing before starting. I wanted to make sure there was some clearance for sliding the wing on and off.
	The right side spar control arm is shown in the full up position. You can see the jacks used for adjusting and holding the fuselage level.
	This shows the bolts for holding the rear spar to the rear wing spar. The two bolts at the top are just guide bolts but I will leave them in. They are not necessary but made it easier to hold the spar in position while drilling out the main spar bolt holes.